Men’s MA-1 Leather Bomber Jacket — Black, Sleeve Pocket

Description

The MA-1 pattern cut in leather instead of nylon: a ribbed stand collar, a straight centre zip, ribbed cuffs and hem, slash hand pockets and the small utility pocket on the left sleeve with its own zip. Black, plain, no other detailing.

Where the shape comes from

The MA-1 replaced the leather flight jackets of the 1940s as cockpits got higher and colder. The stand collar was there because a fold-down collar interfered with a parachute harness; the rib at every opening sealed the jacket without bulk; the sleeve pocket held what a seated pilot could not reach for. It became an everyday jacket because all of that happens to make a good everyday jacket.

The leather

Full-grain hide, smooth black. A leather MA-1 wears quite differently from the nylon original — it blocks wind completely, holds its shape rather than billowing, and gains a sheen at the shoulders over a few seasons where nylon simply wears out.

How it is cut

Roomier than a biker jacket by design, with the rib gathering the body in at the hip. There is space for a knit underneath without sizing up. Take your usual size over a t-shirt and let the shoulder seam decide, as always.

What to wear it with

Jeans and trainers for the plain version; chinos or wool trousers and boots when it needs to look sharper. It is the least demanding leather jacket shape there is — nothing in a normal wardrobe fights it.

Looking after it

Condition twice a year. Hang it rather than folding it; the ribbed hem and cuffs take a crease and lose elasticity if they sit squashed for months. Avoid hanging it by the collar on a hook, which stretches the rib at the neck permanently.

Shipping, duties and returns

Free worldwide shipping, 4–9 working days. Import duties are settled before dispatch where the carrier supports Delivered Duty Paid to the destination country; where it does not, duty is charged locally and we will tell you which applies before you order. Thirty days to return anything unworn with tags attached. Questions to info@cordwainleather.com or +34 614 79 27 86.

Size chart

Measure your chest around the fullest part with the tape level. Jacket chest is the finished garment measurement and runs larger than your body, because the jacket has to close over you. Between two sizes, take the larger.

Still unsure? Email your chest and shoulder measurements to info@cordwainleather.com and we will come back with one size, not a chart to guess from.

Questions about MA-1 bomber jackets

What does MA-1 stand for?

It is a United States military designation rather than a word — the first jacket in the “MA” series, introduced for air crews in the mid-1950s. The name stuck to the shape, so any jacket with a ribbed stand collar, centre zip, slash pockets and a sleeve pocket tends to be called an MA-1 regardless of who made it.

Why do MA-1 bombers have an orange lining?

Because the original was reversible for a reason: an airman down in open country turned it inside out and the bright orange made him visible to search aircraft. On modern civilian jackets it is purely a nod to that, and on a leather MA-1 like this one the reversible construction is not used at all.

Is a bomber or a biker jacket better for everyday wear?

A bomber, for most people. It layers more easily, it suits a wider range of ages and builds, and it does not carry the attitude a biker jacket does, which means you can wear it somewhere other than a bar. The biker is the better-looking object; the bomber is the one that gets worn.

Do bomber jackets suit shorter men?

Yes, often better than a long jacket does — a hem at the hip keeps the leg line long rather than cutting it in half. The thing to watch is the volume: a very boxy, oversized bomber shortens the torso visually. A closer cut with the rib sitting right at the hip is the version that works.

How do you stop a ribbed hem from stretching out?

Do not pull the jacket off by the hem, and do not hang it by the collar on a hook. Knitted rib recovers from being stretched briefly and does not recover from being held stretched for weeks — which is what happens when a heavy jacket hangs from its collar or sits bunched in a bag.

Why does a leather bomber cost more than a nylon one?

Material and labour. A hide is bought by the piece and cut around its flaws, with far more waste than a roll of nylon, and leather is slower to sew — every seam is permanent because the needle holes do not close. The result lasts considerably longer, which is the trade you are making.